Les Ecaillers Riesling 2004 from Léon Beyer

"... an amazing treat from the cellar, impeccable evolution, yet so vibrant and full of life ..."

A thrilling pull from the cellar. Rather deep gold in colour. Beeswax, dried honey, a hint of resin on the nose. As the wine warmed, perhaps a glimmer of lemon and dried apricot, but the nose is all about the enticing savoury elements. Maybe some dried herbs too.

The wine is dry but rich and textured on the first sip. The waxy, dried honey and resin elements persist, but the acidity is still fresh and drives the palate as you get to know it better. Dried apricots, with a little apricot pit bitterness, peek through the core. This is a wine to sip over an evening … if you can pace yourself to let it sit in the glass.

I love the fact that after twelve years in bottle, and considerable evolution, I’m not forced to fall back on the term “petrol” or any of the equivalents, to describe what I am smelling and tasting. Apart from a Riesling richness, it shares the evolving, savoury elements that I have sometimes found in older Sémillon, Chenin Blanc, Fiano, and Chablis. So lovely!

Les Ecaillers is a selection from Beyer’s limestone and clay-based vineyards largely in the Grand Cru Pfersigberg.

Santé

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