Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Chardonny — 12 wines reviewed

"... four Sauvignon Blancs, three Rieslings, and five Chardonnays, one of which is a traditional method sparkler ..."

available in Ontario from August 19, 2017

We recommend four Sauvignon Blancs, three Rieslings, and five Chardonnays, one of which is a traditional method sparkling wine. As always, part of the interest is to experience the great divergence between the wines, in this case looking across single varieties to find difference due to origin, vintage and winemaking.

The four Sauvignon Blancs range from a very austere Sancerre and a very non-mainstream Marlborough wine, to an unexpectedly slim and stony wine from South Africa and an herbal-vegetal example from Chile.

  • 2014 Roblin Ammonites, Sancerre
  • 2016 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough
  • 2016 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc, Walker Bay, WO Western Cape
  • 2015 San Pedro 1865 Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Leyda Valley

Of the Rieslings, the first is a dry (trocken) wine from Germany, while the second and third wines are off-dry examples from the Niagara Peninsula.

  • 2015 Siegbert Bimmerle Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Prädikatswein
  • 2016 2027 Cellars Wismer Vineyard Fox Croft Block Riesling, VQA Twenty Mile Bench
  • 2016 Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling, Niagara Peninsula

The first Chardonnay is a sparkling wine from Alto Adige/Trentino in northern Italy. The second is a very good unoaked Chardonnay from Ontario. The final three are from Burgundy: a Chablis 1er Cru, a Montagny, and a Viré-Clessé.

  • Ferrari Trento Brut Méthode traditionnelle, DOC Trento
  • 2015 Rosewood Unoaked Chardonnay, Niagara Peninsula
  • 2015 Alain Geoffroy Beauroy Chablis 1er Cru
  • 2015 Domaine Berthenet Tête De Cuvée, Montagny
  • 2015 Domaine Des Tourterelles, Viré Clessé
9294

FERRARI TRENTO BRUT , Méthode traditionnelle, DOC Trento

Vintages #352153 • $24.95 • 750ml. • 90/100
This traditional method sparkler from Alto Adige/Trentino in northern Italy is 100% Chardonnay. Notes of toast and dried herbs underlie bright lemon and ripe apple aromas. Firm acidity defines the character of the palate, that reads as fully dry, balanced by a lightly creamy texture. The citrus, fruit and toasty notes carry into the crisp, dry finish. Good value for this rather simple but elegant sparkling wine.
Tasted July 28, 2017 • PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD. (Agent)Find it at your nearest LCBOShare Recommendation



9316

ROBLIN AMMONITES SANCERRE AC 2014

Vintages #499988 • $39.95 • 750ml. • 91/100
The price tag gets in the way here, but this wine fascinates me. Almost neutral, the nose presents a base of flint and petrichor (think of the smell of wet stones after a rain), with an earthy-vegetal core, and almost no fruit except a lemony tinge. Firm acidity drives the palate — it's bone-dry, again stony and earthy, underpinned by a thin spine of lemony extract, that lingers endlessly with a salty bite. Uncompromising Sancerre focus and minerality.
Tasted July 28, 2017 • WINEONLINE MARKETING COMPANY LTD (Agent)Find it at your nearest LCBOShare Recommendation



9324

DOG POINT SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, Marlborough, South Island

Vintages #677450 • $26.95 • 750ml. • 90/100
This 2016 was previously released in April 2017, and the wine is now rather different. At the moment it's very challenging: reductive (I've tasted it three times), with lots of smoky flint and S02 that pretty much now hides the fruit, with just a dash of grapefruit essence underneath. The palate has much more life, giving me hope that the reductive elements will sort themselves out. It's dry, with high acidity, balanced alcohol and a firm texture. Grapefruit and green apple fruit maintain an austere presence, and the flinty, stony character continues into the finish. I am fascinated, but only recommend this for those who want to experience something far from the Marlborough mainstream.
Tasted Aug 8, 2017 • TRIALTO WINE GROUP LTD. (Agent)Find it at your nearest LCBOShare Recommendation



9325

SOUTHERN RIGHT SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, Walker Bay, WO Western Cape

Vintages #512277 • $21.95 • 750ml. • 90/100
This is a vibrant, stony and mineral Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa. The nose is smoky and lightly reductive, with hints of apple and lemon showing through. But the palate is vibrant, with grapefruit, light herbal and earthy jalapeno notes, and a grapefruit essence. It is bone-dry, brightly acidic, and full of life, with almost a waxy, honeyed texture. Quite intriguing.
Tasted July 28, 2017 • TRIALTO WINE GROUP LTD. (Agent)Find it at your nearest LCBOShare Recommendation



9308

SAN PEDRO 1865 SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, Leyda Valley

Vintages #375212 • $18.95 • 750ml. • 88/100
The herbal, jalapeno-tinged nose has a lightly earthy undertone, with green apple and lemon fruit. The palate is firm and lightly creamy, with brightly acidic grapefruit at the core, underpinned by dried herbs and earthy notes. This is an interesting new world expression of the grape. My only complaint is that the bottle is unnecessarily heavy.
Tasted July 28, 2017 • PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD. (Agent)Find it at your nearest LCBOShare Recommendation



9320

SIEGBERT BIMMERLE RIESLING KABINETT TROCKEN 2015, Prädikatswein

Vintages #496489 • $24.95 • 750ml. • 90/100
This is an interesting expression of dry German Riesling from Baden, Germany's southernmost wine region. The merest nuance of Riesling rubber-mineral underlies the compact citrus, apple and melon fruit on the nose. It is dry, with firm acidity balancing a light, creamy texture, enlivening the subtle fruit, and then driving into the crisp, stony finish. Harmonious and compelling.
Tasted Aug 15, 2017 • ANDREW PELLER IMPORT AGENCY (Agent) • Find it at your nearest LCBOShare Recommendation



9301

2027 CELLARS WISMER VINEYARD FOX CROFT BLOCK RIESLING 2016, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment

Vintages #225490 • $22.95 • 750ml. • 90/100
This is a lovely Niagara Riesling. The wine is very pale straw in colour, with subtle aromas of red apple, lemon-lime and peach, an herbal edge, and an underpinning of firm Riesling minerality. The palate is off-dry in character, but jumps with bright acidity and joyous peach and red apple goodness. The acidity dries the vestiges of residual sugar on the finish, with lingering peach and apple fruit and an underlying stony essence. Very fine indeed.
Tasted July 28, 2017 • 2027 CELLARS LTD. (Agent) • Find it at your nearest LCBOShare Recommendation



9303

FEATHERSTONE BLACK SHEEP RIESLING 2016, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Vintages #80234 • $16.95 • 750ml. • 88/100
I'm very pleased to see this lively Black Sheep Riesling showing so well. It's pale straw in colour, with hints of lemon, red apple, honeydew and white peaches. But it's the palate that shines: off-dry, with vivid acidity that nicely balances the sweetness, leaving a firm, crisp sweet-tart vibrancy that infuses the red apple and peach fruit. The finish is drying and mineral. Very attractive and a fine value.
Tasted July 28, 2017 • FEATHERSTONE WINERY (Agent)Find it at your nearest LCBOShare Recommendation



9307

ROSEWOOD UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2015, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Vintages #112151 • $17.95 • 750ml. • 89/100
I really appreciate the restraint of this wine: almost neutral on the nose, there is a hint of stony, citrus-lemon and green apple fruit, and a note of beeswax too. Crisp acidity drives the palate, with the fruit coming a little more into the foreground, while the finish is stony and drying. This is an unoaked Chardonnay that doesn't compromise its integrity with excessive winemaking, and stays true to its cool climate Niagara roots. My favourite Rosewood Chardonnay to date.
Tasted July 28, 2017 • ROSEWOOD ESTATES WINERY (Agent) • Find it at your nearest LCBOShare Recommendation



9312

ALAIN GEOFFROY BEAUROY CHABLIS 1ER CRU AC 2015

Vintages #733501 • $31.95 • 750ml. • 89/100
The nose is stony, lemony, with a trace of cheese rind — typical and quite restrained. But while the palate is firmly acidic and dry, there is a suggestion of riper melon and white peach fruit supplementing the mineral-tinged lemon and apple, that lingers on the finish. This is a generous Chablis — not an oxymoron because the 2015 vintage allowed for a little more ripeness — and while not perhaps quite in the centre of my idea of Chablis, it is very attractive.
Tasted July 28, 2017 • EDWARD'S WINES & SPIRITS (Agent)Find it at your nearest LCBOShare Recommendation



9313

DOMAINE BERTHENET TÊTE DE CUVÉE MONTAGNY AC 2015

Vintages #488866 • $22.95 • 750ml. • 89/100
This is a bright, crisp and mineral-tinged chardonnay, with a hint of green apple and lemon fruit, and a subtle note of resin. While the wine has some weight, it is the firm acidity that shapes the palate, bringing a vibrancy to the fruit, and focusing into the citric, mineral finish. Another simple, direct and satisfying Chardonnay from Burgundy.
Tasted July 28, 2017 • LIQUID ASSETS (Agent) • Find it at your nearest LCBOShare Recommendation



9314

DOMAINE DES TOURTERELLES VIRÉ CLESSÉ AP 2015

Vintages #489781 • $19.95 • 750ml. • 88/100
Maybe this won't rock your world, but it's an honest, direct Chardonnay that shows itself for what it is. The nose is subtle, with green apple, lemon and white flowers. The palate is firmly dry, with brisk acidity, lemon, green apple and honeydew fruit, no obvious oak, and a brightly acidic and stony finish. Pure, focused and quite elegant.
Tasted July 28, 2017 • NOSH FOOD & WINE CONSULTANCY (Agent) • Find it at your nearest LCBOShare Recommendation



Santé

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