Spain — Rioja • $68.95 • WD Score 92/100

While this wine is 23 years old, and is certainly showing its age, it still has an essential life at its core. It is medium-depth garnet in the glass, and the nose is a complex of savoury elements: hints at dried resin, celery salt, damp earth, black olives and leather — the list could extend as you explore — with a little dried cherry essence that reminds you of the glorious fruit that once was. And yet, despite all those evolving elements that largely translate to the palate, there is still a lightness and life-affirming acidity — a savoury freshness if you will — that fights through some earthy and bretty elements that start to build towards the finish, and lingers with a balsamic, salty, stony finish. This is a compelling wine for me, but it is rather pricey, and should only be purchased by those who want to explore an evolved, mature wine. If you decide to take the plunge, I think that it will reward your efforts. • Tasted 2017-12-09 • LCBO id#929489 • Find it at your nearest LCBOSELECT WINE MERCHANTS INC. (Agent)

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