Canada — Ontario • $22.95 • 89/100
Closson Chase is one of the more established wineries in Prince Edward County, well-known for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from local vineyards. But this wine is actually made from grapes “imported” from the Four Mile Creek area on the Niagara Peninsula. Pinot Gris is one of the secondary white grapes that has had considerable success in the warmest regions of Niagara, near Niagara-on-the-Lake, and it is always interesting to see how winemakers handle it. In this case, the wine has a Gris rather than a Grigio weight and sensibility, but fine Niagara acidity. My formal review follows.
This compelling Pinot Gris is made from Niagara fruit. Bright red apple, pear and lemon aromas carry a nuanced, honeyed depth. The wine is dry, with crisp acidity, and some weight despite the modest alcohol, and there’s a denseness of texture and a light phenolic bitterness reminiscent of apricot pits on the finish. Alsatian character with Niagara acidity — very nicely done indeed! • Tasted 2017-09-16 • LCBO id#469445 • Find it at your nearest LCBO • CLOSSON CHASE VINEYARDS INC. (Agent)